How To Make A Papier-Mâché Snowman – Part 2

How To Make A Papier-Mâché Snowman – Part 2

Part 2 – How To Make A Papier- Mâché Snowman

After the little Papier-Mâché snowman from Part 1 was dry, I realized his feet weren’t so steady.  I had used the cream cheese box to cut out and make soles for his feet.  That cardboard was not so firm and somehow the ends of his feet curled in the front.  As you can imagine, that created a bit of a wobbly snowman.  Extra paper clay had to be applied there and flattened to make him a little more stable, which meant more drying time.  Sigh…

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To remedy this, on the second snowman, a pizza box lid was used to create soles for feet.  Let me tell you that this was a far better idea.   After stuffing the newspaper sleeve, applying the paper strips and allowing that to dry, I glued the pizza box lid soles in the appropriate spots and allowed the Tacky glue to dry.

Then, the paper clay was used to fill in the space around the bottom, creating a nice base.  Paper clay was also applied in a ring around the neck.  The clay was allowed to dry.  This helped to stabilize the head and the base.  I think I will start doing this with all of the snowmen!

 

How To Make A Papier-Mâché Snowman - Part 2

 

After the clay had completely dried, a coat of white primer and paint was applied.  I really liked the paint used on the pumpkins as a base but that particular paint does not come in white.  This Olympic primer and paint in one works really nicely, too.

He’s beginning to look more like a snowman now and less like an alien or a troll!  Lol!

 

Remember the Easy DIY Melted Snowman Tablescape from last year?  I had some of the fabric left from the flannel plaid scarf.  This was used to create a little scarf for this first snowman.  The snowman stands about 10″ tall.  The scarf measures 18″ long and ended up being 1 – 7/8″ wide.  The lines of the plaid were followed as a guide to cut straight lines.

How To Make A Papier-Mâché Snowman - Part 2

Threads were removed from both ends to create fringe.  I didn’t bother to sew up the edges.  They were left raw.  There shouldn’t be a lot of strain on them once they are tied around the little fellow’s neck.

How To Make A Papier-Mâché Snowman - Part 2

Since the plaid had green in it, too, florist wire was used to create a band for the earmuffs.  (I saw this done on a snowman in a store and thought it was so clever!  However, they had used some black wire.  The florist wire seemed perfect for this project.)

 

How To Make A Papier-Mâché Snowman - Part 2

 

His eyes were painted with regular acrylic craft paint.  Since they were supposed to look like coal, they were painted black.  Of course, his carrot nose was painted orange.  Red paint, to match the plaid fabric, was used for the mittens and the earmuffs.  And, he now looks more like a snowman, doesn’t he?

 

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A big crooked smile was painted on his face.  White twinkles were painted on his ‘coal’ eyes and white snowflakes brighten up his red mittens.

Frosty was looking a little too bright and new.  A waterbased antiquing medium by FokArt was used to take off the new look.  The antiquing medium was watered down with a wet brush and applied to the snowman in sections.  Then, the surface was quickly rubbed with a paper towel and most of the antiquing medium was removed.  It looks subtle but that is a good thing!

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After the antiquing was dry, it was time to add some sparkle to Frosty!  A light coat of Mod Podge was brushed on, a section at a time, as glue and then clear glitter was sprinkled over the wet Mod Podge.

I have to tell you right now, looking at this little snowman really puts a smile on my face.

Next, using the Loctite Super Glue, the ends of his coiled band for the earmuffs were glued into the little holes made earlier.

The plaid scarf was the finishing touch.  I love this little snowman!  Another two are in various stages of becoming snowmen, too.  

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How To Make A Papier-Mâché Snowman - Part 2 on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

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How To Make A Papier-mâché Snowman

How To Make A Papier-mâché Snowman

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To make this  Papier-mâché snowman, first you’ll need newspaper and a newspaper sleeve.  Yep, I used the newspaper sleeve.  It seemed the right size for the snowman I had in mind.  Just imagine a row of these snowmen made from an item you usually toss in the trash…

 

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Since this was a little on the small side, I tore the newspaper in half and used the single sheets to wad into balls.  The balls of newspaper were then placed in the plastic sleeve.  When the sleeve was filled with enough of the newspaper, the plastic bag was tied in a knot.

I wanted legs to be visible.  Using masking tape, I taped the bag creating two ‘legs’.

 

 

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Then, a head was formed.  This was a more compacted ball of newspaper to create a round ball.  That was placed in the sleeve above the body and the knot.  Another knot was tied to hold the ball in place.

 

 

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As you can imagine, the head was a little ‘wonky’.  In order to make it more stable, I wrapped a piece of masking tape around it.  Awww, perfect!

 

Just like the pumpkins, strips of newspaper were glued to the shape with the Papier-mâché glue.  ◄ (You can find complete directions for making the glue and the clay here.  This makes a lot!  You might want to make half or a third of the recipe unless you are planning on making much bigger or a lot of these!)  I cut the strips for the snowman a little shorter and not as wide as the ones used on the pumpkins.

This was actually done in two settings, allowing the paper strips to dry and stiffen the figure a little before applying them to the head.  Take note, a few strips were applied to the neck area both times to help support the head.

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Once the paper strips were dry and the piece was completely covered, I felt the feet needed a better foundation.  This little snowman has to stand on his own, unsupported.  I had an empty cream cheese box and cut ‘soles’ for the feet from the cardboard box, glued them to the bottoms of the feet, and filled in the gaps with the paper clay.

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About two-thirds of the body was covered with the paper clay.  You can see the arms are beginning to take shape.  The little fellow was allowed to dry for a day at this point.  In order to hasten the drying, he was set next to the heat register in the kitchen.   (Yes, we already have the heater turned on this year!)

I learned with the pumpkins and the pumpkin stems, that you need to dry areas before applying too much of the paper clay or you might have a collapse.  The stems completely covered in one setting ended up having dropsy.  By covering the base of the stem, allowing it to dry, and then, covering the top, the stems had a better base.  They stand more erect.

Remember that.  You must have patience.  

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Once the lower body was completely covered with clay and dried, clay was applied to the head and some clay was added to his arms.  He was allowed to dry again.  The register expedited the drying process nicely.  He’s beginning to take shape.

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The idea of having earmuffs on this little guy was inspired by a snowman at a local store.  The band across the top was a spiraled wire and for whatever reason, I just wanted to recreate that look.   It just seemed so clever!

To make them, two equal-sized balls were shaped, flattened, and applied to the wet clay on both sides of the head.  Placing the wet clay on the wet clay helped the two fuse together.  (I wanted definition between the ear muffs and the head.  The wet on wet clay helped create that.  You can blend the wet clay out onto the dry clay and it will adhere easily without a line but in this case, the definition was preferable.)  At this point, you can poke a hole with a toothpick on both of the flattened shapes where the spiraled wire will be attached later.  If you would rather, or forget to do this, a drill can be used to drill a tiny hole for it after the piece has dried.

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After the Papier-mâché snowman dried overnight, another thin layer of the clay was spread over the head, smoothing out the clay, and subtle cheeks were formed.  You can see that a carrot nose was also shaped and applied to his face.  (Laying him on his back kept the carrot erect instead of drooping.)The eyes were shaped to resemble coal.  I tried to shape ridges on the edges to replicate the edges of chipped coal.  I’m not sure how successful that was but that was the objective.

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He was laid on his back to add the carrot nose, the coal eyes, and to cover the front with another smooth layer of clay.  At this point, he seems to resemble a troll more than a snowman but we are not done yet.  Another day of drying and working on the back will be the next step.

Part 2 will be posted in the next few days.  I can’t wait to get to the painting part and, ultimately, this little  Papier-mâché Snowman will be glistening, too.  Until then,

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How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 3

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 3

Halo Master Chief Costume Shoulder Pads Continued

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The smaller part of the Halo Master Chief costume shoulder pad, which sits at the top of the pad should be made from the 1/4″ foam.  (I didn’t have any of that.  Two sheets of thinner craft foam glued together worked nicely for this and that is what I used.)

Using the small template shape on the page, follow the same steps, cut out, place the template on the foam, and trace around the shape.  Then, cut out the innermost shapes and draw around them.  Cut out the shapes next to those, draw around and continue until all the shapes are drawn.

Next, follow the lines using the heated knife blade.  (The small metal ruler was used as a guide where possible.)

 

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On the backside of the foam, draw two curved lines from the two intersecting angles at the top to the bottom of the piece, as shown in the picture.

Then, using the X-Acto knife, make two shallow cuts following the lines just drawn.  This will make it easier for the piece to bend and be shaped while using the heat gun.  Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Use the heat knife to burn off the two edges, which will be glued to the larger section of the shoulder pad.  Without touching the outer layer, use the heat knife to burn off some of the foam at an angle.   This will make it easier to glue the pieces together.

Before gluing the small piece to the shoulder pad, the topside and the sides were painted.  The underside was left gray.

You can see in the picture below where the small piece was attached to the shoulder pad.  You can also see the lines made by the heat knife.  I pulled the knife over the lines and the raised and recessed areas it created were interesting.  So, I left it that way.  

The silver paint was dry brushed over the edges of the shoulder pad and the edges of all the raised areas.  it really ended up looking like metal!  The acrylic craft paint worked great for this project.

 Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 The Back Of The Breastplate

As the other parts of this costume were being created, I mulled over how to finish the back of the breastplate.   The inspiration pin on Pinterest did not have a view of the back.  Getting down to the wire, I had to make a decision.  Using the pattern from the front piece, I made a paper pattern with a curved bottom piece.  Then, created an angled line, which would butt up to the edge of the breastplate in the back.  

The pattern was cut out and traced onto another piece of the EVA foam and cut out with an X-Acto knife.

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

That looked pretty plain.  It needed some detail.  Repeating the trapezoid shape from the raised areas in the front, the shape was cut and removed.  

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The shape was then traced onto the back and black paint was applied to the areas around where the piece would be glued.  The new piece was painted the avocado green.  The black needed a bit of a second coat of paint and the green needed a second coat.Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 The small trapezoid shape was also painted the avocado green.  After those pieces dried, the Loctite glue was used to attach the large piece to the back.  It was butted up to the straight piece across the back.  The lower sides were left loose to glue later.

Large books were used to hold the piece firmly, while the glue dried.  You want to keep the rounded shape of the shoulders and the side pieces.  While the glue was drying, I wrapped the piece around the edge of a table and set the books on top of it.  Sometimes a stack of books was placed on the piece to help support the foam.

Once, I had inadvertently pulled the shoulders out and lost the shape.  I tried to bend it back and I could tell it was putting too much strain on the piece.  The heat gun was used to soften up the top and underside of the shoulders and they went right back where they needed to be.

After the back was securely in place, glue was applied to one of the loose sides, matched to the coordinating end of the front design, and pressed in place.  This was held securely and then heavy books were set on it and the piece was allowed to dry.  The process was repeated for the other end.

Once the sides were done, the trapezoid shape was glued into the recess of the back.  Just like the other details on the front piece, the trapezoid shape was left slightly raised. 

The line where the two pieces butted together wasn’t particularly appealing.  A thin strip of foam cut to size and glued over top of it seemed to be the perfect solution.  Since some of the detail was gray or silver, I left that piece gray, too.  After the glue dried, silver paint was dry brushed on the entire piece.

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 The kids spent the night.  Halloween morning, I got up at 4:30 and began putting the adhesive strips of Velcro on all the pieces.  (I told you this is not a project to start two weeks before Halloween!)

 The 2″ Velcro was used on the big pieces.  The thinner strips of Velcro I had were used on the shoulder pads.  I wish we had used the 2″ strips on those, too.  Do yourself a favor and buy the big pack of the 2″ Velcro and use it lavishly.

In the afternoon, someone at school pulled one of the shoulder pads off and the adhesive on the thinner strip did not stick well enough to reattach.  I think 2 of the 2″ wide strips would have kept it from being pulled off his shirt.  This was an easy fix when he got home.

Looking back, I would have also used extra strips of the 2″ wide on the thigh pieces.  That area gets more stress from walking and sitting than any other area.Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

All in all, the costume held together pretty well.  I prayed all day that it would hold together and Aidan would have a good day.   

Aidan reported that his character was recognized by many people and a couple of them were in disbelief that someone had made it!

Maybe this will inspire you to tackle a Master Chief costume for your special young man.

Supplies Used For This Project Included:

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

2 – packs of Best Step flooring found at Walmart for $13.44 each were used.

1 – 12″ x 18″ piece of gray craft foam found at Michael’s for 99¢.

Industrial Strength 2″ wide Velcro  (This box was not enough to adequately do this project.  1″ wide Velcro was used for the shoulder pads and the shoes and the 2″ wide would have done a better job.  In retrospect, I wish I had bought the large $18.00 package at Walmart.)

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

2 bottles of acrylic ‘Avocado’ craft paint

1 bottle of acrylic ‘Black’ craft paint

1 bottle of acrylic ‘Silver’ craft paint

1 bottle of Loctite Go2 Glue

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

We found the Master Chief helmet at a Halloween store for $39.95.  A 25% off coupon found in a local ad was used, making the helmet $30.00.

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How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 2

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 2

Halo Costume Details

We continue on to Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume.  If you look at the inspiration picture of Master Chief, you will see the thigh pads are relatively simple in design.  Aidan needed to be here for this step.  He stood as I wrapped a large sheet of paper around his thigh and drew where the thigh pad should be.

Then, I cut out that pattern, placed it back on his leg and we decided where it needed to be adjusted.  Using a marker, I made those adjustments and cut off any excess.  The pattern was transferred onto the gray mat twice, one for each leg.  The detail was added with a ballpoint pen.  The detail would ultimately be intensified with the heat knife.  If I had more time, I would like to add some more detail with raised areas like those on the breastplate. Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The thigh guards were cut from the mat.  The heat gun was used again, like before, and the guards were shaped to fit around the thigh nicely.  Velcro will be applied to these after they have been painted.

If you use the tracing paper, trace two, the pencil tends to tear it.  It was no big deal, but a little annoying, I still ended up with a sharp design.  I did use the little ruler on the straight lines.

 

 

In retrospect, I wish I had rounded out the back edge more.

 

 

The Forearm Gauntlets

The pattern for this was easily created by measuring the length needed, cutting a large sheet of paper that length, wrapping it around Aidan’s forearm, and marking it with a felt marker.  The paper was folded in half so each side was identical.   Then, using that as the base shape, a little bit of a point was created in the middle front side.  (You can draw the detail on one side, hold the paper up to a window, and trace to the other side.)

You can see in the picture, a curved line was drawn on the upper end of the pattern and another shape in the middle just above the point.

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

In my rush to complete this project or mindless stupor at the moment, I started cutting out the detail on the forearm piece.   Three-quarters of the way through, I realized it.  The top side was still attached.

Brainstorming, I came up with the idea of leaving that side attached and cutting the other three sides on both of the forearm pieces.  What you do to one, you have to match on the other.

I knew that the cut foam piece would pull away from the surrounding area, leaving a larger opening. It is even more apparent in the picture above.   So, matching the two made it look intentional.  (Only you know my secret.)

The Master Chief  Shoulder Pads

The template for this, Template by EVAkura :) (this template may be shared, but please give credit)  and the detailed instructions can be found here ►405th.com. 

The template is sized for an adult.  After printing it, I placed the paper on Aidan’s shoulder and marked what size would look more proportionate for him.  You can do a lot of figuring and size that down to create a size-appropriate template for yourself.  Yes, but I used a quicker solution by using PicMonkey, a photo editing tool.

Let me try to explain my madness…

First, download the template by EVAkura to your computer.  Print it out and measure how big you want it to fit your child or whomever.  I used the letters at the top and knew I wanted it to reach the right side of the ‘W’.

Then, go to PicMonkey.com.  Click on “Edit” or “Edit a Photo”.   Select the EVAkura template file from your computer.  The red arrow on the picture is the length I wanted the template to be.

Now, click on Overlays on the left side of the screen.  Then click on My Computer when it drops down.  Now, select the same template file.

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The second template will come up on top of the first template as an overlay.  Using your cursor, pull the right corner down at an angle until the end of the shoulder pad template is at the point you marked earlier.  Now, it should be the right size.  You can print it at this point, or…

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

you can block out the print around it by adding another overlay over top of it.  Just click on Overlays.  Choose the Geometric rectangle and then change the color to white by clicking on the eyedropper and copying the white background.

Repeat the process to add another overlay horizontally across the top.  Then, save the file to your computer and print the template on card stock.  Now, transfer to the EVA foam.Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

I used tracing paper to transfer the design.  My ‘old school‘ graphic art school training showed up again. 

If you use the tracing paper, trace two, the pencil tends to tear it.  It was no big deal, but a little annoying, I still ended up with a sharp design.  I did use the little ruler on the straight lines.

A much easier option is to print the pattern on card stock, cut the pattern, trace around it, cut and remove the inner pieces a piece at a time, and trace around those.  (Much easier!)Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.comCut out the shoulder pad with scissors and, or, the X-Acto knife.  The lines were traced with a ballpoint pen.  Press firmly with the pen.  Faint lines may disappear when using the heat gun and manipulate the foam to shape it.

 

 

 

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Use the heat gun and your hands to pull and stretch the foam to shape it.  Do this before cutting out the inner pieces!  Great instructions for this can be found here ►405th.com. 

The next step was to cut out the pieces.  You need a very sharp blade to do this or you will have a lot of tattering.  You don’t have to change blades constantly.  You can sharpen the blade with a knife sharpener and sharpen it frequently.

The shapes need to be cut carefully with the X-Acto knife.  If it becomes difficult, sharpen the blade.  Caution – you have to hold the piece in your hand as you cut it.  Be careful where your fingers are in respect to the knife blade!

The pieces are then glued back in the openings.  The two rectangular pieces were recessed slightly and the rest of the pieces were raised slightly.  (Check out this post for detailed instructions ►405th.com.)    You want to apply the glue to the openings, not the pieces.  I used the LocTite Go2Glue for this.  As you slip the piece down into the opening the glue will be pushed down not up on the outside of the finished piece.Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

After gluing these pieces on for awhile, I came up with a technique.  I applied the Go2Glue along most of the edges, leaving a spot on the corners or ends to dab just a little bit of "Super Glue".  Then, when the piece was placed where it needed to be, the "Super Glue" would hold it in place until the Go2Glue dried. 

In the 405th post, the long rectangular detail was removed, but this piece being downsized, I felt would be too risky with the pieces being too thin.  The outer edge detail was left off for this smaller version.  Before painting, the detail was burned with the heat knife instead of cutting and recessing.

You can find part 1 ◄here.   Come back for the final details, Part 3.

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How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 1

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 1

Master Chief Costume

Oh, my goodness!  Through this process, I can’t tell you how many times I have thought that perhaps I had bitten off more than I could chew!  After researching different sites on how to make this costume, the one thing I knew was it needed to be made from EVA foam.   What is EVA foam?  Ethylene-vinyl acetate and it just so happens anti-fatigue floor mats are made from this.

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Walmart had packages of four anti-fatigue floor mats.  This is what they look like.  One side has texture.  One does not.

Looking for patterns for the Master Chief costume, I checked out several websites.  Most were talking about Pepakura and how you could get the patterns on different sites.  Well, I printed off a pattern for the chest plate.  Too many pieces!  Oh, my gosh!  It hurt my brain! 

I asked ten-year-old Aidan to draw a picture of what he wanted and this is the picture.

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With this in mind, I found a picture of Master Chief, which Aidan had pinned on his Pinterest board, printed it off, and drew a freehand pattern from it.  That was so much easier!  

When Aidan came over, I tweaked the paper pattern for the chest plate detail, adding some length to the part that fits over the shoulders.  Then, the pattern was traced onto the mat.

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Watching some YouTube videos on how to cut this foam, I found those who say to use a heat knife, those who say to use an X-Acto knife, and those who suggest scissors.  

Using an old woodburning tool we have, fitted with a knife blade, I tried this method.  Maybe this one is not hot enough.  The results were less than spectacular.

There was not an arrow on this picture of Master Chief.  I saw this on another picture and took the liberty of adding it for more interest.

The X-Acto knife worked better but the edges seemed a little bit mangled.  The scissors seemed to work the best.  Any area where it was possible, I used the scissors.  In the corners and for the little cutouts, an X-Acto knife was used.  Scissors were also used to trim up the edges as much as possible.How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

The arrow needed to be raised.  It might seem counterintuitive, but first, it needs to be cut out and removed.  How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

The glue bought for this project is LocTite All Purpose Go 2 Glue.  This is a newer glue in the LocTite line.  Reading the package, it seemed to be exactly what was needed for this project.  (We are an Amazon Affiliate and may receive a small percentage of any sales from this link at no cost to you.  Thanks for supporting this website!)

A thin line of glue was applied to the lower half of all the edges of the piece, which was removed.  The piece was then reinserted in the opening and left partially extending above the surface.  This glue gives you a little more drying time than super glue.

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The other two pieces of detail were cut out, removed, and glued back in place, extending above the surface, too.  After the glue was dry, the heat knife was used to draw the lines.  A small metal ruler was used as a guide for the blade.  This needs to be done slow and steady so you don’t accidentally slip onto the plate and mar the surface of the chest plate detail!How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

At this point, I showed this to Aidan and checked to see if it fit properly.   Let’s just say he was not very impressed.  

Undaunted, I plodded on, and using the foam cutout as a guide, made a paper pattern for the breastplate.  This was adjusted and fitted to Aidan, too.  Then, that pattern was used to cut out a piece from the foam.  Actually, this piece had to be cut from 2 pieces of the foam.   I made sure that the front piece went over the shoulder and there wouldn’t be stress on a seam there.  We used the textured side of the mat for this piece. 

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You can see in the picture where the seam was glued together.  Masking tape was used along the inside seam to hold the two pieces together while the glue dried.  A large heavy book was placed over the seam to hold it in place, too.

After the seam was glued securely and dried, the heat gun was used to shape and mold the edges to contour around the torso.  This post on 405th.com explains how to shape the foam and it works quite well.

Just look at that!  You can see how flat the left edge is and how the right edge now curves to fit a body!  Aidan tried it on again at this point and still was not impressed.

Most of the posts out there for this costume say to use spray paint.  That means masking off areas, taking this outside, spraying, turning, spraying again.  Well, no thanks.  The time constraint I have right now made me consider alternatives.  

On a scrap piece of foam, I painted a patch of bright blue acrylic craft paint.  It was allowed to dry.  I bent it.  The heat gun was used on it.  No problems!  Why not use inexpensive acrylic craft paint?

We bought a Master Chief helmet before we began this project.  I matched a marker to the color of the helmet, took it to the craft store and found a pretty perfect match, DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paint – Light Avocado. (We are an Amazon Affiliate and may receive a small percentage of any sales from this link at no cost to you.  Thanks for supporting this website!)

Two bottles of the Light Avocado were bought.  A bottle of craft smart Medium Metallic Acrylic Paint in Silver was also purchased at the same time.  You will notice that the helmet has silver brushed on it in places.  

Some more detail was cut out of regular craft foam.  I found a 12″ x 18″ piece of gray foam at Michael’s for 99 cents.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

Personally, I like the gray behind the green but Aidan wants that part black.  Using acrylic craft paint again, the chest plate was painted black.

Then, the LocTite glue was applied to the back of the green chest plate detail, up to the shoulders and leaving the curved edge around the waist sides loose.  It was positioned on top of the black painted piece, placed face down, and books were placed on top of it to keep it compressed together while the glue dried. 

The curved green waist sides were then glued, one at a time and heavy books were placed on them in the same way and the glue allowed to dry.  Both shoulders were glued in the same way.

A pattern was drawn for the waist belt, too, using the Master Chief picture as a guide.  Since the middle ‘cup’ part was raised in the picture, a separate piece of the thick foam was cut.  So the tip would bend back more easily, it was scored on the back side with the heated knife about 1″ above the tip.

Then, the heat gun was used to make that part bend back like the one in the picture from Aidan’s Pinterest board.  Details were drawn on the belt with a pen and then the heat knife was used to make those more apparent.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

This is the front.  The back pattern was made following the same pattern only drawing less of a curve at the bottom.  The plan is to add Velcro on the sides to finish the belt.  

I sent a picture of the costume at this point to Aidan’s dad to show him.  He messaged me back that Aidan said it is COOL!

He has begun to see the possibilities!

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

How to make a Halo Master Chief costume in a couple of weeks?  Maybe it is not impossible!How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

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