How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 3

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 3

Halo Master Chief Costume Shoulder Pads Continued

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The smaller part of the Halo Master Chief costume shoulder pad, which sits at the top of the pad should be made from the 1/4″ foam.  (I didn’t have any of that.  Two sheets of thinner craft foam glued together worked nicely for this and that is what I used.)

Using the small template shape on the page, follow the same steps, cut out, place the template on the foam, and trace around the shape.  Then, cut out the innermost shapes and draw around them.  Cut out the shapes next to those, draw around and continue until all the shapes are drawn.

Next, follow the lines using the heated knife blade.  (The small metal ruler was used as a guide where possible.)

 

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

On the backside of the foam, draw two curved lines from the two intersecting angles at the top to the bottom of the piece, as shown in the picture.

Then, using the X-Acto knife, make two shallow cuts following the lines just drawn.  This will make it easier for the piece to bend and be shaped while using the heat gun.  Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Use the heat knife to burn off the two edges, which will be glued to the larger section of the shoulder pad.  Without touching the outer layer, use the heat knife to burn off some of the foam at an angle.   This will make it easier to glue the pieces together.

Before gluing the small piece to the shoulder pad, the topside and the sides were painted.  The underside was left gray.

You can see in the picture below where the small piece was attached to the shoulder pad.  You can also see the lines made by the heat knife.  I pulled the knife over the lines and the raised and recessed areas it created were interesting.  So, I left it that way.  

The silver paint was dry brushed over the edges of the shoulder pad and the edges of all the raised areas.  it really ended up looking like metal!  The acrylic craft paint worked great for this project.

 Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 The Back Of The Breastplate

As the other parts of this costume were being created, I mulled over how to finish the back of the breastplate.   The inspiration pin on Pinterest did not have a view of the back.  Getting down to the wire, I had to make a decision.  Using the pattern from the front piece, I made a paper pattern with a curved bottom piece.  Then, created an angled line, which would butt up to the edge of the breastplate in the back.  

The pattern was cut out and traced onto another piece of the EVA foam and cut out with an X-Acto knife.

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

That looked pretty plain.  It needed some detail.  Repeating the trapezoid shape from the raised areas in the front, the shape was cut and removed.  

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The shape was then traced onto the back and black paint was applied to the areas around where the piece would be glued.  The new piece was painted the avocado green.  The black needed a bit of a second coat of paint and the green needed a second coat.Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 The small trapezoid shape was also painted the avocado green.  After those pieces dried, the Loctite glue was used to attach the large piece to the back.  It was butted up to the straight piece across the back.  The lower sides were left loose to glue later.

Large books were used to hold the piece firmly, while the glue dried.  You want to keep the rounded shape of the shoulders and the side pieces.  While the glue was drying, I wrapped the piece around the edge of a table and set the books on top of it.  Sometimes a stack of books was placed on the piece to help support the foam.

Once, I had inadvertently pulled the shoulders out and lost the shape.  I tried to bend it back and I could tell it was putting too much strain on the piece.  The heat gun was used to soften up the top and underside of the shoulders and they went right back where they needed to be.

After the back was securely in place, glue was applied to one of the loose sides, matched to the coordinating end of the front design, and pressed in place.  This was held securely and then heavy books were set on it and the piece was allowed to dry.  The process was repeated for the other end.

Once the sides were done, the trapezoid shape was glued into the recess of the back.  Just like the other details on the front piece, the trapezoid shape was left slightly raised. 

The line where the two pieces butted together wasn’t particularly appealing.  A thin strip of foam cut to size and glued over top of it seemed to be the perfect solution.  Since some of the detail was gray or silver, I left that piece gray, too.  After the glue dried, silver paint was dry brushed on the entire piece.

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 The kids spent the night.  Halloween morning, I got up at 4:30 and began putting the adhesive strips of Velcro on all the pieces.  (I told you this is not a project to start two weeks before Halloween!)

 The 2″ Velcro was used on the big pieces.  The thinner strips of Velcro I had were used on the shoulder pads.  I wish we had used the 2″ strips on those, too.  Do yourself a favor and buy the big pack of the 2″ Velcro and use it lavishly.

In the afternoon, someone at school pulled one of the shoulder pads off and the adhesive on the thinner strip did not stick well enough to reattach.  I think 2 of the 2″ wide strips would have kept it from being pulled off his shirt.  This was an easy fix when he got home.

Looking back, I would have also used extra strips of the 2″ wide on the thigh pieces.  That area gets more stress from walking and sitting than any other area.Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

All in all, the costume held together pretty well.  I prayed all day that it would hold together and Aidan would have a good day.   

Aidan reported that his character was recognized by many people and a couple of them were in disbelief that someone had made it!

Maybe this will inspire you to tackle a Master Chief costume for your special young man.

Supplies Used For This Project Included:

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

2 – packs of Best Step flooring found at Walmart for $13.44 each were used.

1 – 12″ x 18″ piece of gray craft foam found at Michael’s for 99¢.

Industrial Strength 2″ wide Velcro  (This box was not enough to adequately do this project.  1″ wide Velcro was used for the shoulder pads and the shoes and the 2″ wide would have done a better job.  In retrospect, I wish I had bought the large $18.00 package at Walmart.)

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

2 bottles of acrylic ‘Avocado’ craft paint

1 bottle of acrylic ‘Black’ craft paint

1 bottle of acrylic ‘Silver’ craft paint

1 bottle of Loctite Go2 Glue

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

We found the Master Chief helmet at a Halloween store for $39.95.  A 25% off coupon found in a local ad was used, making the helmet $30.00.

Part 3 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Please follow and like us:

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 2

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 2

Halo Costume Details

We continue on to Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume.  If you look at the inspiration picture of Master Chief, you will see the thigh pads are relatively simple in design.  Aidan needed to be here for this step.  He stood as I wrapped a large sheet of paper around his thigh and drew where the thigh pad should be.

Then, I cut out that pattern, placed it back on his leg and we decided where it needed to be adjusted.  Using a marker, I made those adjustments and cut off any excess.  The pattern was transferred onto the gray mat twice, one for each leg.  The detail was added with a ballpoint pen.  The detail would ultimately be intensified with the heat knife.  If I had more time, I would like to add some more detail with raised areas like those on the breastplate. Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The thigh guards were cut from the mat.  The heat gun was used again, like before, and the guards were shaped to fit around the thigh nicely.  Velcro will be applied to these after they have been painted.

If you use the tracing paper, trace two, the pencil tends to tear it.  It was no big deal, but a little annoying, I still ended up with a sharp design.  I did use the little ruler on the straight lines.

 

 

In retrospect, I wish I had rounded out the back edge more.

 

 

The Forearm Gauntlets

The pattern for this was easily created by measuring the length needed, cutting a large sheet of paper that length, wrapping it around Aidan’s forearm, and marking it with a felt marker.  The paper was folded in half so each side was identical.   Then, using that as the base shape, a little bit of a point was created in the middle front side.  (You can draw the detail on one side, hold the paper up to a window, and trace to the other side.)

You can see in the picture, a curved line was drawn on the upper end of the pattern and another shape in the middle just above the point.

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

In my rush to complete this project or mindless stupor at the moment, I started cutting out the detail on the forearm piece.   Three-quarters of the way through, I realized it.  The top side was still attached.

Brainstorming, I came up with the idea of leaving that side attached and cutting the other three sides on both of the forearm pieces.  What you do to one, you have to match on the other.

I knew that the cut foam piece would pull away from the surrounding area, leaving a larger opening. It is even more apparent in the picture above.   So, matching the two made it look intentional.  (Only you know my secret.)

The Master Chief  Shoulder Pads

The template for this, Template by EVAkura :) (this template may be shared, but please give credit)  and the detailed instructions can be found here ►405th.com. 

The template is sized for an adult.  After printing it, I placed the paper on Aidan’s shoulder and marked what size would look more proportionate for him.  You can do a lot of figuring and size that down to create a size-appropriate template for yourself.  Yes, but I used a quicker solution by using PicMonkey, a photo editing tool.

Let me try to explain my madness…

First, download the template by EVAkura to your computer.  Print it out and measure how big you want it to fit your child or whomever.  I used the letters at the top and knew I wanted it to reach the right side of the ‘W’.

Then, go to PicMonkey.com.  Click on “Edit” or “Edit a Photo”.   Select the EVAkura template file from your computer.  The red arrow on the picture is the length I wanted the template to be.

Now, click on Overlays on the left side of the screen.  Then click on My Computer when it drops down.  Now, select the same template file.

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The second template will come up on top of the first template as an overlay.  Using your cursor, pull the right corner down at an angle until the end of the shoulder pad template is at the point you marked earlier.  Now, it should be the right size.  You can print it at this point, or…

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

you can block out the print around it by adding another overlay over top of it.  Just click on Overlays.  Choose the Geometric rectangle and then change the color to white by clicking on the eyedropper and copying the white background.

Repeat the process to add another overlay horizontally across the top.  Then, save the file to your computer and print the template on card stock.  Now, transfer to the EVA foam.Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

I used tracing paper to transfer the design.  My ‘old school‘ graphic art school training showed up again. 

If you use the tracing paper, trace two, the pencil tends to tear it.  It was no big deal, but a little annoying, I still ended up with a sharp design.  I did use the little ruler on the straight lines.

A much easier option is to print the pattern on card stock, cut the pattern, trace around it, cut and remove the inner pieces a piece at a time, and trace around those.  (Much easier!)Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.comCut out the shoulder pad with scissors and, or, the X-Acto knife.  The lines were traced with a ballpoint pen.  Press firmly with the pen.  Faint lines may disappear when using the heat gun and manipulate the foam to shape it.

 

 

 

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Use the heat gun and your hands to pull and stretch the foam to shape it.  Do this before cutting out the inner pieces!  Great instructions for this can be found here ►405th.com. 

The next step was to cut out the pieces.  You need a very sharp blade to do this or you will have a lot of tattering.  You don’t have to change blades constantly.  You can sharpen the blade with a knife sharpener and sharpen it frequently.

The shapes need to be cut carefully with the X-Acto knife.  If it becomes difficult, sharpen the blade.  Caution – you have to hold the piece in your hand as you cut it.  Be careful where your fingers are in respect to the knife blade!

The pieces are then glued back in the openings.  The two rectangular pieces were recessed slightly and the rest of the pieces were raised slightly.  (Check out this post for detailed instructions ►405th.com.)    You want to apply the glue to the openings, not the pieces.  I used the LocTite Go2Glue for this.  As you slip the piece down into the opening the glue will be pushed down not up on the outside of the finished piece.Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

After gluing these pieces on for awhile, I came up with a technique.  I applied the Go2Glue along most of the edges, leaving a spot on the corners or ends to dab just a little bit of "Super Glue".  Then, when the piece was placed where it needed to be, the "Super Glue" would hold it in place until the Go2Glue dried. 

In the 405th post, the long rectangular detail was removed, but this piece being downsized, I felt would be too risky with the pieces being too thin.  The outer edge detail was left off for this smaller version.  Before painting, the detail was burned with the heat knife instead of cutting and recessing.

You can find part 1 ◄here.   Come back for the final details, Part 3.

Part 2 of How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

Please follow and like us:

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 1

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume – Part 1

Master Chief Costume

Oh, my goodness!  Through this process, I can’t tell you how many times I have thought that perhaps I had bitten off more than I could chew!  After researching different sites on how to make this costume, the one thing I knew was it needed to be made from EVA foam.   What is EVA foam?  Ethylene-vinyl acetate and it just so happens anti-fatigue floor mats are made from this.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Walmart had packages of four anti-fatigue floor mats.  This is what they look like.  One side has texture.  One does not.

Looking for patterns for the Master Chief costume, I checked out several websites.  Most were talking about Pepakura and how you could get the patterns on different sites.  Well, I printed off a pattern for the chest plate.  Too many pieces!  Oh, my gosh!  It hurt my brain! 

I asked ten-year-old Aidan to draw a picture of what he wanted and this is the picture.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

With this in mind, I found a picture of Master Chief, which Aidan had pinned on his Pinterest board, printed it off, and drew a freehand pattern from it.  That was so much easier!  

When Aidan came over, I tweaked the paper pattern for the chest plate detail, adding some length to the part that fits over the shoulders.  Then, the pattern was traced onto the mat.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

Watching some YouTube videos on how to cut this foam, I found those who say to use a heat knife, those who say to use an X-Acto knife, and those who suggest scissors.  

Using an old woodburning tool we have, fitted with a knife blade, I tried this method.  Maybe this one is not hot enough.  The results were less than spectacular.

There was not an arrow on this picture of Master Chief.  I saw this on another picture and took the liberty of adding it for more interest.

The X-Acto knife worked better but the edges seemed a little bit mangled.  The scissors seemed to work the best.  Any area where it was possible, I used the scissors.  In the corners and for the little cutouts, an X-Acto knife was used.  Scissors were also used to trim up the edges as much as possible.How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

The arrow needed to be raised.  It might seem counterintuitive, but first, it needs to be cut out and removed.  How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

The glue bought for this project is LocTite All Purpose Go 2 Glue.  This is a newer glue in the LocTite line.  Reading the package, it seemed to be exactly what was needed for this project.  (We are an Amazon Affiliate and may receive a small percentage of any sales from this link at no cost to you.  Thanks for supporting this website!)

A thin line of glue was applied to the lower half of all the edges of the piece, which was removed.  The piece was then reinserted in the opening and left partially extending above the surface.  This glue gives you a little more drying time than super glue.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The other two pieces of detail were cut out, removed, and glued back in place, extending above the surface, too.  After the glue was dry, the heat knife was used to draw the lines.  A small metal ruler was used as a guide for the blade.  This needs to be done slow and steady so you don’t accidentally slip onto the plate and mar the surface of the chest plate detail!How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

At this point, I showed this to Aidan and checked to see if it fit properly.   Let’s just say he was not very impressed.  

Undaunted, I plodded on, and using the foam cutout as a guide, made a paper pattern for the breastplate.  This was adjusted and fitted to Aidan, too.  Then, that pattern was used to cut out a piece from the foam.  Actually, this piece had to be cut from 2 pieces of the foam.   I made sure that the front piece went over the shoulder and there wouldn’t be stress on a seam there.  We used the textured side of the mat for this piece. 

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

You can see in the picture where the seam was glued together.  Masking tape was used along the inside seam to hold the two pieces together while the glue dried.  A large heavy book was placed over the seam to hold it in place, too.

After the seam was glued securely and dried, the heat gun was used to shape and mold the edges to contour around the torso.  This post on 405th.com explains how to shape the foam and it works quite well.

Just look at that!  You can see how flat the left edge is and how the right edge now curves to fit a body!  Aidan tried it on again at this point and still was not impressed.

Most of the posts out there for this costume say to use spray paint.  That means masking off areas, taking this outside, spraying, turning, spraying again.  Well, no thanks.  The time constraint I have right now made me consider alternatives.  

On a scrap piece of foam, I painted a patch of bright blue acrylic craft paint.  It was allowed to dry.  I bent it.  The heat gun was used on it.  No problems!  Why not use inexpensive acrylic craft paint?

We bought a Master Chief helmet before we began this project.  I matched a marker to the color of the helmet, took it to the craft store and found a pretty perfect match, DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paint – Light Avocado. (We are an Amazon Affiliate and may receive a small percentage of any sales from this link at no cost to you.  Thanks for supporting this website!)

Two bottles of the Light Avocado were bought.  A bottle of craft smart Medium Metallic Acrylic Paint in Silver was also purchased at the same time.  You will notice that the helmet has silver brushed on it in places.  

Some more detail was cut out of regular craft foam.  I found a 12″ x 18″ piece of gray foam at Michael’s for 99 cents.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

Personally, I like the gray behind the green but Aidan wants that part black.  Using acrylic craft paint again, the chest plate was painted black.

Then, the LocTite glue was applied to the back of the green chest plate detail, up to the shoulders and leaving the curved edge around the waist sides loose.  It was positioned on top of the black painted piece, placed face down, and books were placed on top of it to keep it compressed together while the glue dried. 

The curved green waist sides were then glued, one at a time and heavy books were placed on them in the same way and the glue allowed to dry.  Both shoulders were glued in the same way.

A pattern was drawn for the waist belt, too, using the Master Chief picture as a guide.  Since the middle ‘cup’ part was raised in the picture, a separate piece of the thick foam was cut.  So the tip would bend back more easily, it was scored on the back side with the heated knife about 1″ above the tip.

Then, the heat gun was used to make that part bend back like the one in the picture from Aidan’s Pinterest board.  Details were drawn on the belt with a pen and then the heat knife was used to make those more apparent.

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

This is the front.  The back pattern was made following the same pattern only drawing less of a curve at the bottom.  The plan is to add Velcro on the sides to finish the belt.  

I sent a picture of the costume at this point to Aidan’s dad to show him.  He messaged me back that Aidan said it is COOL!

He has begun to see the possibilities!

How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

How to make a Halo Master Chief costume in a couple of weeks?  Maybe it is not impossible!How To Make A Halo Master Chief Costume on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

Please follow and like us:

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath No One Will Forget – Part 3

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath No One Will Forget – Part 3

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath

Finishing the pumpkin wreath will go more quickly than preparing the pumpkin and the arms.  Those took a little time but we are there now!  Thankfully, it will be ready before Halloween!

The arms, shoulders, and hands were completely wrapped in the paper strips.  The Papier mâché glue was applied with a paint brush just like before.  Then, the piece was allowed to dry. Some heavier paper was used at the elbows and the shoulders and a little extra bulk was added, too.

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

I wanted the hands and arms to look skinny and some of the lines from the cable to be accentuated in the hands.  When the paper was applied there, I took care to press it down alongside of the cable.

Drying time is all relative to humidity and sunshine.  One day, I put one of the pumpkin heads on the table on the patio, the sun was shining brightly, and there was no humidity.  That one was almost dry by the end of the day!  If you remember the first pumpkin I made, it took days!  Looking back, it was the weather that slowed the process.

 

After the piece was dry, clay was applied over the paper strips.  Since I was doing this on a flat surface, only one side could be worked on at a time.  You can see in the picture that balls of clay were applied where the knuckles should be.  Then, the clay was pressed around the edges and gently blended into the base coat of clay.  It’s beginning to look like a creepy hand now, right?

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

One side of the arms, shoulders, and hands was covered in the Papier mâché clay. ◄(You can find the recipe for the paste and clay here.)  That was allowed to dry.  Then, the other side was covered with the clay.  The hands had to be done in a few settings and allowed to dry between settings because of how close the fingers were to each other.   It was much easier to allow the fingers to dry and then apply clay to the one right next to it.

After the entire piece was covered in the clay and allowed to dry,  Valspar Black 60074 – Flat paint, was painted over one side.  The paint was allowed to dry and then, the other side got a coat of the paint.

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Some of the Kilz primer was dry brushed over top of the arms and hands.  Then, I mixed a little black acrylic craft paint into some white acrylic craft paint to create a light gray paint and dry brushed it over the areas where the primer was.  The dry brushing just brought out more of the knuckle detail and the texture of the clay.

 

 

 

 

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

The pumpkin had to be attached to the wreath in some way.   I decided upon using fishing line.  That meant it had to be threaded through the pumpkin somehow.  

Using a small drill bit, I drilled two holes in the back of the pumpkin toward the top.  These were barely visible but the fishing line was easy to thread through one of the holes.

In order to take less tension or stress off of the points where the fishing line went through the pumpkin, a sleeve from a mechanical pencil was used to absorb some of that.  The fishing line was threaded through the hole drilled in the back of the pumpkin, through the sleeve, and out the other hole.  That should spread the stress all across the back of the pumpkin instead of on two little spots.

  Going in was easy.  Bring the line back out from the inside was not.  I ended up threading the line through a needle and using it to pull the thread through.  That worked nicely.

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

This is the back side of the frame.  You can see the eye screws were attached to the frame on the indentation where the glass and picture would normally be placed.  A small hole was drilled before screwing each of the eye screws into the wood.  It makes it much easier.

Felt pads were also glued on the back of the frame so the front door would not be scratched up by the frame. It probably cuts down on the noise of it banging against the door, too.  The zip ties were threaded through the eye screws and around each of the arms, securing them to the frame.  The shoulder piece was also zip tied securely.  

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

I left the ends sticking out in this picture so you could see where they were placed.    Then, using the fishing line threaded through the pumpkin head, the line was tied onto the two eye screws at the top of the frame.  (I used a double piece of line to thread through the pumpkin.  It will hold more weight and is much easier to tie.)

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using PicMonkey Editor, the sign was created.  The background was first created using the papyrus option under textures.  The typeface is ‘Face Your Fears’.  On top of that, I used an overlay  from the Vampires theme, the one with the tombstones.   The fade was increased a bit until the words showed up well but the tombstones were still recognizable.

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

When I was happy with the results, the sign was printed on regular copy paper.  The paper was then attached to a black foam core poster board, which had been picked up at the dollar store.  Using an X-Acto knife, the paper and the foam core were cut neatly.  The white inner core of the black board showed on the edges and a black marker was used to cover it on all four sides.Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

Then, more exterior Mod Podge was painted over the printed sign, the back, and a coat on the sides.  A couple more coats were painted over the sign, allowing each layer to dry before adding another.

 

 

 

 

After the pumpkin head was tied onto the frame, I picked up the black thorny branches used on the skeleton wreath.  It just seemed something was missing at the top of the frame and the branches just seemed perfect.  Three of the branches were hot glued together toward the base of the branches.  Fishing line was used to tied them to the frame and a little hot glue for extra support.  The dried leaves got a couple of coats of Mod Podge and were strategically placed to hide the fishing line.

Finishing The Pumpkin Wreath - How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 3 - on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

The process of  “How to Make A Pumpkin Wreath No One Will Forget” has taken some time but I am so excited to see how people respond!   Finishing the pumpkin wreath – part 3, hope you have enjoyed this and hope it inspires you to create your own!  

 

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath No One Will Forget

 

 

 

 

 

Please follow and like us:

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath – Part 2 – Arms, Hands, and Shoulders

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath – Part 2 – Arms, Hands, and Shoulders

 

Part 2 – The Arms, Hands, and Shoulders

So, I decided to use the cable for the ‘skeleton’, the arms, hands,and shoulders, for this figure.  It’s pliable to begin with, and by the time all of the paper is glued to it, it will be stiffened.  (If he were going to be standing, a more stable frame would probably be necessary.) In  the picture below, you can already see how the arm on the left is becoming more rigid.   The newspaper page I used on the arms is a little heavier than your run of the mill newspaper.

I cut a cable long enough to allow for shoulders and the two arms.  Although I was planning to use PVC pipe for the shoulders, I had a heavy cardboard tube from a package of aluminum foil and decided to use it.   You can see the cable is  crimped up on each side of the tube, which helps hold the tube in place.  I also flattened the cardboard tube in the middle so the pumpkin head could sit on top of it.  (That would have been a lot harder to do with a PVC pipe.)

 

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 2 The Arms, Hands, and Shoulders on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

You can see how the ends of the cable coating were sliced, splayed, and the wire ends exposed.

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 2 The Arms, Hands, and Shoulders on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

Then, the ends were spread around the ‘arm’ above the wrist and hand and using masking tape, secured the cable to the wrist and hands.

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 2 The Arms, Hands, and Shoulders on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

 

 

 

My plan was to have the hands positioned like they were pulling the figure up and out of the frame on the bottom of the frame.  Trying to think how I would pull myself out of a frame, I moved his right hand to the bottom and then the left hand to the top corner of the frame.  Then, I saw a picture where the figure was offering one hand, beckoning you to come with him.  Ohhh!  That was perfect!  Now, he will look like he is reaching down and offering a hand to pull you into the frame!

So, I placed the shoulders and arms into the frame.  The piece fits perfectly against the sides of the inner frame walls.  Using eye screws, I can secure the arms to the sides of the frame.

The pumpkin head laid on top of the flattened cardboard tube looked great.  The head will be attached with fishing line or metal wire.  Two little holes drilled into the back will allow the wire to go through one and out the other and attached to eye screws in the frame.  To spread out the load on the wire or line, the wire will be run through an old marker tube.  Then, there will be less stress on the two points where the wire or line touch the pumpkin head.

The space below seemed to need something.  I picked up the sign from the skeleton wreath and placed it there.  Yes, I think a sign there would be perfect.  Now, I need to come up with the perfect words…  Any ideas?

How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath - Part 2 The Arms, Hands, and Shoulders on MyHumbleHomeandGarden.com

In the meantime, the arms, hands, and shoulders will be receiving more Papier mâché and, ultimately, paper clay.  

Click here to see ►Part 1 of How To Make A Pumpkin Wreath No One Will Forget.

 

Please follow and like us:

Enjoy this blog? Please spread the word :)