Scarlett O'Hara Halloween Costume Your Little Girl Will Love - Part 2

The Scarlett O’Hara Halloween Costume is coming together, piece by piece. You can find part 1 of the costume ◄ here.

Scarlett O’Hara Hat

Finding a wide-brimmed hat for a little one is a little harder than you might think at this time of the year. I found some but those have patterns or the wrong colors. I looked online but couldn’t find the right one there either, so I kept looking.

Then, Memphis came over to spend the night. She likes to visit the closet in “Sophie’s room, which is actually Tiffany’s old bedroom,” and chooses one of Sophie’s old dresses to wear home. It’s like shopping in Sophie’s closet.

Scarlett O'Hara Halloween Costume Your Little Girl Will Love - Part 2 — Hat Before Removing Trim

She wanted one of Sophie’s old hats. There is a stack of them. I pulled them out and right there is the perfect wide-brimmed hat for 4-6-year-olds! It fit her perfectly. The only problem, it is trimmed with turquoise ribbon. I know I can fix that and add pine green velvet trim.

Remove the trim with a seam ripper. It is just sewn on and the hat is perfect underneath. Once all of the trim is removed, it is a blank canvas. (Final details in Part 3.)

[ctt template=”8″ link=”Bg096″ via=”no” ]The DIY Scarlett O’Hara Halloween Costume is coming together, piece by piece.[/ctt]

Scarlett O’Hara Dress

The sheer fabric over the top of the penciled design looks so pretty!

The original pattern does not call for an overlay on the bodice but it seems necessary. After finishing the design on the front and back sections, cut the bodice front and backs from the sheer fabric. Laying these on top of the coordinating front and back pieces, pin the sheer over the cotton fabric.

Next, baste the sheer fabric pieces to the cotton pieces inside the 5/8-inch seam allowance. Then, follow the pattern instructions as directed. This pattern calls for cording trim. It is not really necessary.

Eyelet Trim

Initially, I had planned to use some intricate lace I bought some time ago. Once draped over the dress, it is clear it is too detailed. I had grabbed some eyelet lace at the same time. It seems perfect.

The simplicity of the eyelet trim seems to be a much better fit and the holes in the eyelet will allow the velvet ribbon to be threaded through it.

The bias tape along the top of the eyelet is way too bulky. First, remove the bias tape. Next, fold the raw edge up on the seam line and iron. Fold again to create a narrow hem. Sew close to the edge of the folded fabric to make a narrow hem.

Then, thread 3/8-inch velvet ribbon through the two lower outside holes in the eyelet. Your eyelet may be different. Just choose two holes so the velvet ribbon will show similar to the picture below. Use a large needle and thread just the end of the ribbon through it to make it easier to add to the eyelet.

The eyelet used for this project is cut 70-inches long. Wanting this to be as full and lush as possible, the top of the eyelet is gathered very tightly.

Tip: To gather, set a longer basting stitch and loosen the tension slightly.  This will make it much easier to gather.  Run two basting stitches on either side of the hemstitch at the top of the eyelet.

Once the needed length of the eyelet is determined, double-fold each end, iron, and hem catching in the end of the velvet ribbon.

Isn’t this looking great? More detail will be added to cover the stitching along the top.

The Skirt

Before drawing the pattern on the skirt sections, sew the side seams together.

Leave the back seam open so the fabric will lay flat. Plan how your pattern is going to be laid out on the fabric. Start with the front section. Make extra copies of the floral pattern. I made 4 in total.

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Place these on top of the fabric until you have the desired design pattern. At this point, using a disappearing ink marking pen, make a dot on the fabric at each corner. Then, place the sheet of paper with the design on it on the backside of the fabric, matching the corner dots up to the paper corners.

Tip * Make a template from another piece of paper, marking the distance between the two papers on top and the two on the bottom.  It is easier than trying to measure the distance each time.

Tracing The Design Onto The Skirt Sections

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Trace the design with the Derwent Inktense colored pencils. At first, I traced the design and applied the water with a paintbrush one design at a time. Then, I began to just trace the design and color in with the pencils, waiting to paint until all the designs are drawn. That seems to be a faster process.

If you have a light table, this is a good time to use it. If not, you might want to draw over your copies with a felt tip pen so the pattern will be easier to see through the fabric. Placing another white paper or cardboard under the template may make it easier to see the design, too.

Paint The Water Onto The Pencil Design

Once all of the designs are drawn, use a paintbrush to blend and paint water over the top of the design. Remember that after the pencil design is wet and then, dries, it is permanent. When the fabric is wet and you use pencils on the dampened fabric, the pencil will be more intense.

I used a blue pencil around the centers of the flowers on the dampened fabric. In the pictures above, you can see the blue pencils used on top of the damp fabric intensifies the pencil marks.

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